On the connection between Japan and fabric printing: shibori

Shibori (Shibori) is a Japanese term for a traditional Japanese fabric-dyeing technique. In Japanese, “shibori” means “to wring, squeeze, press.” Each action creates a unique pattern on the fabric, as the dye does not reach the protected areas. The technique involves folding, tying, twisting, scrunching, pinching, and compressing the fabric before dipping it in dye to create a variety of patterns. Some of these fabric-dyeing methods are known in Western countries as tie-dye (Tie-Die).

Indigo fabrics dyed using the shibori technique, air-drying outdoors. Photo by: Teona Swift

The term Shiburo means “to press and scrunch” in Japanese. The word describes the process of manipulating the fabric. In the shibori printing method, the fabric is given a three-dimensional shape before it is dipped in dye, distinguishing it from other common printing processes that treat fabric as a two-dimensional surface to be dyed. First, the fabric is folded and scrunched, then tied in various ways. These ties and gathers block off certain areas of the fabric, preventing the dye from reaching them. Once the ties are undone and the fabric has dried, beautiful patterns appear on the fabric.

Patterns created using the shibori technique are characterized by an irregular, blurred appearance, unlike patterns produced with a stencil or screen.

Characteristics of the shibori technique:

-       The fabric: The fabric takes on a three-dimensional shape through folding and compression before dyeing, unlike other methods.

-       The pattern: It is created by areas of the fabric that are not exposed to dye. The pattern can be intricate or organic, depending on how precisely the folds and gathers are made.

-       The dye:  Shibori is known for its use of indigo blue, but other colors can also be used.

-       The process: Like tie-dye (Tie-Dye), a Western technique, shibori often involves more complex folds and compression, creating more symmetrical and balanced patterns.

There are various shibori techniques:

• Binding (Kumo)- In this method, the fabric is tied around a round object (such as a marble or stone), creating spider-like or circular patterns. Each layer of thread is tightly placed next to the previous one. The length of the thread covering the fabric ultimately determines the width of the circle, while the thickness of the concealing thread determines the width of the line left undyed. 
  

• Stitching (Ori-Nuri)- In this method, stitches are sewn into the fabric in a desired pattern, and then the threads are pulled tight to gather the fabric, preventing the dye from penetrating the gathered areas. The Japanese used stitching more than any other people. It is a highly flexible method that allows control over the process and offers a wide range of designs, from delicate to bold, simple to complex, figurative to abstract. The technique involves sewing the fabric in various ways to create intricate, delicate patterns, such as straight, curved, or parallel stitches. Special effects can be achieved through different types of stitching, different ways of folding the fabric, and different stitch shapes (straight, curved, parallel, etc.). Sometimes the stitching is done on a single layer of fabric, sometimes on double fabric, and sometimes the fabric is folded many times before being stitched. Usually, the stitching lines were planned and marked on the fabric before work began
  

• Folding (Arashi)- In this method, the fabric is folded in a planned way, then clamped between objects (such as wooden squares) on both sides. The dye penetrates only the exposed areas. First, the fabric was folded lengthwise, then widthwise, and then clamped between two identical objects made of dye-resistant material (such as two wooden squares). This left the edges exposed to the dye, while the areas held between the objects were protected from it. Later, the Japanese discovered other ways to manipulate the fabric and create different designs, for example by covering the fabric with paper before folding, dyeing it repeatedly, or using a flexible dye-resistant material to clamp it.
  

• Wrapping around a pole- In this method, the fabric is wrapped around a pole, pleated as it is wrapped, and dyed. This technique produces a pattern of straight stripes the width of the wrapped thread. This technique does not allow for a wide variety of designs, but even expert artisans found it difficult to carry out the process consistently, resulting in a varied, irregular appearance from one piece to another.

The post's cover image shows a close-up of traditional fabric tie-dyeing techniques, with indigo-dyed tied fabric immersed in a dye bath. Photo by: Teona Swift